Monday 30 July 2012

A-Mazar-Ing Afghan

Banjan Borani
Let's be fair: Afghan food isn't exactly prolific in the UK. It tends to get lumped in together with Turkish, Lebanese, Egyptian etc. And when you ask people about Afghan food, the predominant view is that it consists of kebabs, preferably after a night in the pub. Chortle, chortle.

And so it was, armed with little knowledge but an open mind, that I went to Mazar in Harrow. Named after a village in Badakhshan Province in north-eastern Afghanistan., the venue had received an average 10/10 rating by AllinLondon so I was surprised by the unprepossessing exterior and dated decor and feared that it was exactly as I'd feared: a kebab shop. But if there was ever a lesson in not judging a book (or restaurant) by its cover, this was it.

Borani Sabzi
With no experience of Mazari cuisine, my companions and I opted for a range of dishes. Despite ordering starters and mains, the food all appeared at the same time which was a little overwhelming. Our favourite was the Borani Sabzi, delicately spiced and practically liquidised steamed spinach. I know, I know - sounds like a schoolboy's worst ever school dinner, and looked even worse - but trust me, it was gorgeous. A close second was Banjan Borani - aubergine in fresh tomato sauce, green pepper and garlic. Accompanied by warm, doughy naan bread to soak up the juices, we were in heaven.

While we sipped on Afghani green tea, the rest of the food was already arriving, a veritable mountain of goodies. The authentic Qabeli Palow featured lamb and what we surmised is the Afghan equivalent of Jamaican rice and peas: plain white rice mixed in with juicy sultanas and sweet grated carrot.
Qabeli Palow


Despite being told we'd have to wait for the fish special, it arrived in no time: beautifully grilled salmon steaks - crisp on the outside, moist on the inside - with a flavour I couldn't identify, and our server, despite being incredibly welcoming and hospitable, had only limited English and was unable to clarify the spicing for me. A shame, as I'd love to have tried it at home, although I suspect it was cooked in a tandoor-type oven; it had that kind of quality.

So let me mention the service here: it was warm but unintrusive, our tea glasses were refilled regularly, the manager was at pains to make sure we understood that everything was cooked fresh and on site. All the staff seemed genuinely pleased that we were there.

Even Ashak, the ravioli-style pasta filled with leek and herbs - arguably the prettiest dish we were served - was tasty, although surely more Italian than Afghan? Not that I'm any kind of expert.
 
Ashak

I also have to comment on the unbelievable value for money. The most expensive thing we ordered was the salmon at £8.95 and there were three massive steaks on the plate. You can see from the photos just how much food was served for each dish. Of course, it's not just about the quantity, but the quality as well. Although presentation was not necessarily at the forefront of the chef's mind, taste absolutely was. We fell in love with Mazari cuisine and hospitality and can't wait to try it again. 


For more information at AllinLondon go to http://www.allinlondon.co.uk/restaurants/restaurant-11249.php

Friday 27 July 2012

What's in an egg?


I love food. I especially love food that other people have prepared for me. Ergo, I eat out. A lot. And I write about it. But I don't want you to think that it's all about dining out. Oh no. Sometimes it's about seeing what's in the fridge and using it up before it expires. (Oh come on - we've all been there!)
The humble egg can be used to create so many dishes: think of flaky pastries, airy souffles and crunchy meringues. From the ostrich to the duck to the quail, there's an egg for everyone. And I wanted to take it back to basics. Sometimes you just feel like scrambled egg without smoked salmon, or poached egg without hollandaise...

Now imagine an omelette. The best omelette you could possibly conceive. Oh look - there it is!

And here's how to do it:

Whisk two eggs. Pour slowly into a pre-heated frying pan, ensuring even distribution on the bottom of the pan. Cook on a low light. Depending on your taste, add breaded ham, sliced tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, green olives, cheese, salt, pepper and Italian herbs. When the egg is cooked through, fold over and serve.

Easy! And it only takes ten minutes! (I can almost hear Homer Simpson complaining "Ten minutes? But I want it now!).

Haute cuisine it's not. It's not even pub grub. But it's quick and easy home cooking of the highest order. I dare you not to like it!

My other favourite use for egg: egg soup (think Chinese restaurant) - so easy to make at home and so yummy!

Using chicken stock to make a soup (ideally fresh but frankly any will do), add finely chopped spring onions  and heat over a low light. Whisk an egg. Just before the soup boils, slowly pour in the egg, stopping frequently, while stirring the soup so the egg cooks on impact, and makes a beautiful swirly pattern and tastes fluffy and delicious. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Lots of people add noodles, chicken, prawns, beef, onions, sweetcorn and all kinds of things. The secret is in the pouring of the egg - you can't be too heavy handed and dump it all in as a big blob (that would be an unattractive poached egg) and you must make sure to stir the soup so you can thing strands of egg.

This is also an incredibly easy, quick dish to make but it looks and tastes great!


Wednesday 25 July 2012

Olympic Torch Relay - A Photographic Review

Prior to the start of the London 2012 Olympics, the Olympic Torch came to Harrow today. I know this is slightly off topic but I thought you may be interested to see... enjoy!

Although the torch wasn't due until 10am, the crowds started to gather from 8am in the July sunshine. See the guy in the top right of the photo - what a great view he's going to have!

By 9am, the town centre was packed full of excited people!


Even Katie the statue looked like she was enjoying herself! Maybe she likes Morris Dancers...



Patriotism was high and people were waving flags long before the torch arrived.

 Every time a policeman, bus or practically anyone passed by, a loud cheer went up and flag were waved.

Suddenly the procession started with Union Jack flag bearers running down the high street, cheered on by the crowds.

The Queen was given an equally warm welcome with her message of peace for all. Well done your majesty!

The crowd were briefly distracted by a child carrrying the torch, but soon realised it was a home-made one. Phew! Thought we'd missed it!

We wouldn't be fooled twice!

The tension and anticipation all got a bit much for some people!

And suddenly... there it was!
And then it was gone... off up the hill and on to Brent!
But did the celebration stop... No! The people of Harrow were entertained by the local radio presenters playing funky music and the crowds were very slow to disperse... Thank you Harrow! A great time was had by all!





Tuesday 24 July 2012

Last Light and Afterlight by Alex Scarrow

Do you know what peak oil is? Me neither - until I read these books by Alex Scarrow. Author of the ubiquitous TimeRider series, in Last Light and its sequel Afterlight, Alex explores the serious question: what happens when the oil runs out?

In true Scarrow style, however, this is not a thesis on consumerism or a dissertation on the technological age. It is a fast-paced, thought-provoking roadmap through suspicion, fear and outright terror as society quickly breaks down.
Using a narrative tool to fast track the denouement of Last Light, Alex Scarrow imagines that all oil production is unexpectedly halted simultaneously around the world. Unlikely, granted; but once you set aside your healthy scepticism and run with it, the implications are shocking. Suddenly armed forces overseas may be stuck there with the enemy because we cannot bring them home; there is no electricity, running water, heating or power in our homes; stores quickly run out of food and water as the supply chain breaks down and hoarding begins (and think how little the UK produces in terms of agriculture etc today...); there is no fuel for private or public transportation so people stuck far from home must take chances and walk; law and order breaks down as the police and other key personnel rush to be with their loved ones. In short, in takes just one week for chaos to reign.
Alex Scarrow

In the midst of this, we follow the members of one family as they struggle survive and find one another in unimaginably difficult circumstances. And then there's the shadowy figures hunting one of them, because she may know who has masterminded the chain of events.

Scarrow, recognising the inherent challenges in moving the story on, deftly avoids them by setting the sequel Afterlight some years later. Not all the family members have survived but those who remain have joined up with other survivors and are now living on a defunct oil rig in the North Sea, isolated, self-sufficient and safe. But just as a mysterious, attractive foreigner shows up in suspicious circumstances, the leader of the group has an accident that renders her too ill to function, leaving a gap that the newest member is only too happy to fill. Meanwhile, some of the young adults in the group are convinced that, somewhere on the mainland, life as they only just remember it must have re-started and three of them set out to find a place where there is electricity, junk food and video games. Instead, they find a world of cannibalism, child soldiers and a ruthless dictator, running out of supplies, intent on invading their oil rig.

Although I feel that Alex Scarrow does chicken out somewhat by relocating the sequel a few years ahead - we never learn how the family met with the others in the group, let alone how they found and colonised an oil rig - I find his explanation (that the novel would be more logistical than narrative) reasonable. What disappointed me more was that we never learn who was behind the halt in oil production, what they hoped to achieve and what happened to them. What I did appreciate, however, was that - unlike some sequential novels - both books were independently outstanding. Reading them both in order obviously improved the reader experience but they could also stand alone.

In addition, the subjects touched on in the novels are not easily forgotten: from our dependence on oil, to whether what we value as a society are the right things, to the resilience of the human condition in the face of adversity and the desire of some elements of society to dominate at the expense of others.

In a sense, these books hold up a mirror to society and shows us the best and the worst of ourselves. Thought-provoking, insightful and well-written, these novels may also be prescient. We just have to hope they are not. For an easy read that intelligently uses a light touch to depict some key topical and eternal questions, you cannot do better than Alex Scarrow's Last Light and Afterlight.

Learn more about Alex Scarrow at http://www.scarrow.co.uk/ or follow him on twitter (@alexscarrow). I read these books on my kobo (www.kobobooks.com)

Sunday 22 July 2012

Perfect for a Summer's Evening: A Taste of Italy in Hatch End

Sea bass
With the improved weather, I was recently looking for somewhere in north west London where I could sit outside and enjoy good food in the sunshine.
Hatch End is a small quiet town (if it's even big enough to be called a town) with a high street that features more restaurants than anything else. I think I counted eight Italian restaurants alone! With so much local competition, my companions and I thought that the quality must be high.
 
Prawn cocktail
Established in 1982, Fellini prides itself on a friendly, family ambience and, sitting under the awning, protected from the sun but enjoying the warmth it provided, this was very much in evidence as we were encouraged to take our time to choose from the extensive menu. While making up our minds we were offered some complimentary crudites (moist olives, cucumber and carrot with a refreshing dip) and fluffy, fresh bread, which went down very well.
Frogs' legs
For our meal "proper" we chose a range of starters, from the traditional to the unusual.

On the less adventurous side, the prawn cocktail was fresh with a tangy Marie Rose sauce that was unapologetically synonymous with the 1970's. Similarly, salty parma ham set off the accompanying sweetness of honeydew melon with a perfect familiarity that let us relax into our meal, like a comfy old jumper, knowing that everything was going to be alright.

Roast duck
On the other end of the spectrum, one of my companions tried frogs' legs for the first time. I know what you're thinking - frogs' legs? In an Italian restaurant? But, in a tomato sauce, they are also a delicacy in the northern Italian Piedmont region as well as in Tuscany. With a fishy texture and tasting like chicken, the frogs' legs dish was made sweet by the almonds and fresh cherry tomatoes in the creamy sauce. As you might be able to see in the top left of the photo, the one slightly off-putting thing was the pair of legs looking like they had just jumped into the sauce...
Next up, our amiable servers brought us another range of dishes. On the high comfort level side this time, we had old favourite spaghetti bolognese. Piping hot, laced with hunks of beef, the flavour was subtle but strong. It had clearly been cooked to order - no less, frankly, than I would expect for such a staple, and the pasta was perfectly al dente.

Confettura della nonna

Not impressed? Well, haven't we all made spag bol at home! How about grilled sea bass with fennel seeds and balsamic vinegar? The fish was fresh and meaty and slightly translucent, with a sweetness from the balsamic drizzle and a wafer-thin crunch of skin (see top photo). Or what about crispy roast duck with sticky sweet cherry sauce? The only critiques would be that there was a supplement for the duck and, as you can see, the portions were generous. Perhaps the cost could be lower if a little less food was served... In addition, we felt that the salad that accompanied the food was a little superfluous as there was just so much already, none of us touched it.
Selva nera
As we sat outside, letting our food go down and drinking our wine, we pored over the extensive dessert menu. Finally, starting to feel a little chilly and overwhelmed by the amount of choice, we relocated inside and looked at the gelato station and other desserts on offer. This is a great feature because, athough there were pictures on the dessert menu, we all changed our minds after seeing the desserts in the flesh, as it were.
Frutti di bosca
I had an adorably presented confettura della nonna or creamy fruits of the forest frozen yoghurt while my companions opted for something a little more substantial! One of them chose the frutti di bosco - a light sponge smothered in tart fruit accompanied by slightly whipped cream. For an extra 50p, we added a densely cocoa'ed scoop of chocolate ice cream (well for 50p, why not!?) - imagine freezing a cup of cocoa - it was that kind of intensity. My other companion opted for a hunk of selva nera (think black forest gateau) filled with cherries and chocolate cream, adding a scoop of mint choc chip ice cream. The peppermint freshness was a delight after a long indulgent meal, especially as it didn't include uniform choc chips - some were shavings some were chunks, so it was great fun to eat with every spoonful different.

We had a wonderful summer evening at Fellini: the place looks great, the food is even better and the service was warm. With the outdoor seating, this is my summer find and I cannot recommend it enough.
Fellini http://www.felliniacaffe.co.uk/

Thursday 19 July 2012

Shot of Tequila by J A Konrath

Set in the early 1990's, Shot of Tequila is a witty, self-effacing and fast-paced thriller full of twists and turns. Our hero, the eponymous Tequila Abernathy, is a former gymnast who works for the mob as a debt collector, which he justifies to himself because it enables him to pay for live-in care for his older sister who has Down's Syndrome.

But his world is turned upside down when he is accused of stealing $1,000,000 from his boss, Marty the Maniac. Tequila knows he's been framed and sets out to prove it. Dead bodies follow him around and as a result, as well as avoiding his former colleagues, he also needs to hide from the police, including our policewoman heroine, Jack (Jacqueline) Daniels.

Shot of Tequila  is the best form of escapist reading I know: it's so outlandish and outrageous that I can confidently sink into it, understanding from page one what kind of story I'm reading. The author clearly knows this and as a consequence, the book doesn't take itself too seriously; that would have been the death knell for this crime/humour/thriller genre. But the author's light touch and insightful sense of entertainment ensures that the reader is gripped but not weighed down by the novel.

I am a voracious reader and not particularly fascinated by any single genre: I flit from historical fiction to science fantasy and psychological thrillers. What draws me in is the writing style of the author. I adore authors who (apparently) effortlessly inhabit their characters and make me believe - and like - them, even when they are ostensibly unlikeable.

Could the book have explored the challenges of living with Down's Syndrome? Could it have lamented the lack of career opportunities for retired gymnasts? Could it have moralised about the risks of borrowing money from loan sharks?

Yes of course it could. But that was never the intent. One almost feels that the book was simply an avenue for the author to share his own effervescence with us.

And thank god he did.

Learn more about J A Konrath and his other novels at http://www.jakonrath.com/ or follow him on twitter @jakonrath. I read this book on my kobo (www.kobobooks.com)

Tuesday 17 July 2012

Belgo's: A Taste of Belgium in London

I recently went to Belgo's Centraal in Holborn for the first time. I had no real preconceptions about what Belgian food would be like but I suspected it would be quite dull. France occupies the fine dining arena; Germany is known as the down-to-earth beer and sausage expert; so what space is there for Belgium? Isn't it just the culinary poor cousin?

Actually, no! From the moment I descended into the basement restaurant area, atmospherically decked out as a deutsche Bierhalle, I had a good feeling.
A kilo of mussels
The house speciality is mussels, available with a variety of sauces from the traditional white wine, celery, garlic and onion to the unusual Thai (lemongrass, chilli, ginger, Kaffir lime, coconut and coriander) and familiar and earthy Provencale with rich tomato, herb and garlic.

My companion had not had mussels before and was unsure whether to take the plunge; after all, they come by the kilo so you have to be quite dedicated to even make a dent in the portions.

With a menu including rib-eye steak, duck breast and crisp pork belly, she wasn't worried about finding something she'd like, but was also keen to get the full experience.
Belgian waffle with chocolate sauce
Our server (who incidentally, like his colleagues, was dressed as a Belgian monk - very random!) could not have been more helpful: after we told him our dilemna, without hesitation, he brought out a small dish of mussels for my companion to try before she made her decision. She plumped for the mussels in classic sauce (the traditional sauce with added cream) - need I say more?

What could we do next but follow our mussels with a warm Belgian waffle smothered in ice cream and chocolate sauce! Deliciously stodgy and rich, with a much-needed lightness from the vanilla ice cream, this dish effortlessly combined hot and cold.

Ninkeberry beer
The other thing about Belgo's that I want to mention is the unbelievable range of Belgian beer on offer. We had great fun sampling and sharing a wide variety of beers - possibly too many! With a choice of white, blonde, dark and amber beers, among others, my recommendation would be to take advantage of the more unusual beers available: have you ever tried chocolate flavoured beer? What about honey, or raspberry? Or - my favourite - ninkeberry, which we later learned was passionfruit?

Whatever you like to eat or drink - in this convivial atmosphere with friendly service - I guarantee you will have a great time.

Saturday 14 July 2012

Predictably Irrational

Have you ever wanted to better understand your colleagues, customers, family and friends? Or even - dare you admit it - yourself?

Subtitled "The Hidden Forces that Shape our Decisions", Predictably Irrational is a work by behavioural economics professor Dan Ariely. Despite his impressive and somewhat intimidating resume, which includes MIT and Princeton, Dan's writing style is chatty and easy to follow.

Andrew Lloyd Gordon
I was introduced to his theories during a training course at the IDM (Institute of Direct and Digital Marketing) in London by Andrew Lloyd Gordon.

And what a revelation! Although Dan Ariely's field is behavioural economics, there's a strong psychological resonance to his work as well.

Addressing questions like "why does recalling the ten commandments reduce our tendency to lie - even when we KNOW we can't get caught?" and "why do headaches persist after taking a cheap painkiller but disappear when we take an expensive one?", the book explores the idea that, in the modern age, we believe we are enlightened, rational beings in control of our own lives (Nietzsche and Richard Dawkins anyone?).

But are we? From choosing to pay £3+ for a cup of coffee to the obesity epidemic and choosing a romantic partner, we are consistently willing to overpay, underestimate and procrastinate. We fail to reconcile the impact of our emotional responses with our choices. Dan Ariely systematically analyses our decision-making process and reveals the pervasive and predictable irrationality that informs it.

Dan Ariely

Let me share one example of the kind of question that Dan examines: suppose you go around to your mother-in-law's house for dinner. You have a good time. At the end, you pull out your wallet and say "Pam, I had such a great evening. What do I owe you?" Silence falls. You open your wallet and say "Would $300 cover it?" No one says a word and your wife looks daggers at you.


Now let's rework that scenario: suppose you go around to your mother-in-law's house for dinner. You give her the $10 bottle of wine as you enter the house. She thanks you warmly and leads you inside.

Think about this on a rational level: why would your greater gift be offensive? Surely it shows a greater appreciation for her hosting of the evening? But we all know that it would not be perceived that way. And we all know this; ergo, it is predictably irrational.

Described by the Financial Times as "unmissable", this work, published by Harper Collins, is accessible but powerful and will make you look at your life and your choices in a new way. Please, please read it.



Learn more about Dan Ariely at www.danariely.com, the IDM at www.theidm.com and Andrew Lloyd Gordon at www.andrewlloydgordon.co.uk. Harper Collins can be found at www.harpercollins.co.uk and the Financial Times at www.ft.com

Thursday 12 July 2012

A Jamaican/Nigerian Celebration

OK so it's not haute cuisine, and I didn't make it myself. But as I imagine most people have limited exposure to West African and Caribbean food, I figured the unusual and exotic nature of it might generate some curiosity.

I recently went to the wedding of a Nigerian/Jamaican couple. With over 200 of their extended family present, many of whom had travelled from the Caribbean and Africa, the event was by turns joyous, serious and humorous. But what did we eat? I hear you cry. The short answer is - a lot of food! Always a good start!

Although I live in London, righfully proud of being one of the cosmpolitan, multi-cultural capitals of the world, I have not eaten a lot of this kind of food so I was determined to try a bit of everthing.

From spicy curry goat (which was ever so slightly tough and chewy but instantly forgiven as it's also very tasty), I moved to caramelised, squishy sweet fried plaintain. Can you tell I adore plaintain?!

There were also two types of rice, which is typically fairly bland in the UK - but not here!
The traditional starchy, well-seasoned Jamaican rice and peas (despite the name, I've only ever seen it as rice and kidney beans although apparentlly the dish refers to any combination of rice and legume - anyone who knows why it's always called rice and peas regardless, please let me know!) was the more familiar. (see picture below)

However, I opted for the less well-known Nigerian Jollof rice (see picture above), which I am reliably informed was appropriated from neighboroughing Ghana (although are African national boundaries just a Western construct? A conversation for another time in another place...), and is also known as benachin, meaning "one pot" in the Wolof language. It is now a popular dish in many parts of West Africa, spread by the members of the Wolof ethnic group.

There are many variations of Jollof rice. The most common basic ingredients are rice, tomatoes and tomato paste, onion, salt, and red pepper. It is cooked by using oil to fry finely-chopped onions, tomatoes and ground pepper, combining with stock and cooking the rice in the stock so it becomes plump and flavoursome. The rice takes on a characteristic orange colour from the mixture.

There was also a choice of chicken: falling-off-the-bone chicken stew,made with thyme, garlic, pimento, scotch bonnet pepper and chicken stock or blackened Jamaican jerk chicken. Neither really need any further description except to say that the jerk had me reaching for my water glass! Almost tipped the balance from pleasantly tingly sensation into I-think-I've-just-killed-my-tastebuds - but not quite! I loved it!

There was also a Jamaica vs. Nigeria battle of the fish. Faced with a choice between Nigerian fish stew (fish seasoned with herbs and cooked with peppers, chilli, onions and tomatoes) or Jamaican Run Down (a mild fish curry cooked with herbs, spices and simmered in coconut milk), of course I had to try them both! I couldn't tell the type of fish used, except to say I suspect it was a white fish of more local origin, the sweet, delicate coconut milk won the day for me.

Overall verdict: spicy, sweet, robust. It's not fine dining, but it was a solid, satisfying and healthy meal and I can't wait to try it again.

Tuesday 10 July 2012

Vive le Market!

Well I just love fresh food, don't you? I especially love other people making it for me!

Bring on the local market, which takes place in the nearby town centre on a regular basis. Marketed as a French market, in reality, there are stalls featuring produce from all over Europe, which only makes it more attractive as far as I'm concerned. From a variety of olives to a selection of meats and garlic cloves at every turn, whoever is responsible for coordinating and approving this event in Harrow deserves a medal. And did I mention the sweet, flaky pastries? Delicious!

Perusing the produce, I couldn't resist buying half a garlic sausage, which will apparently last two weeks in the fridge (not that I imagine I'll be able to verify that - half of it has gone already!)

For those with more adventurous tastes, you could even buy snails to cook at home - I didn't dare!

What I did do, however, was sample the various take-away foods available. Unsurprisingly, I loved the Normandie garlic prawns (or should that be prawnies?! See photo), which were succulent, fresh and juicy. I also loved the tarteflette, which combined soft sliced potatoes, cream, lardons of ham with garlic for a filling and totally satisfying dish that could be enjoyed while walking around the market.

I also want to give a shout out to the man working at Jacc's coffee; firstly, because having coffee as part of the market just makes so much sense and secondly, because it was good coffee - aromatic and strong - and thirdly because he was also selling various syrups to enhance the coffee. I ended up buying a bottle to take home!

His good humour and friendliness really summarised the market for me: small traders trying to make an honest living by providing fresh, good quality produce in a warm environment that draws you in and enhances the town centre experience for everybody.

Now, when's the next one?